Saturday, September 1, 2012

A Conversation with the Grand Canyon Music Festival's Artistic Director


Culture Pony Express (CPE) is excited to feature conversations with cultural figures about the interplay between their artistic endeavors and the settings in which they occur.

 


 grandcanyon_sunset1.jpg

Please listen to Aaron Copland's majestic Quiet City (Wynton Marsalis, trumpet)  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMiS7VWzsDo  (right click link!)

 

 

A Musical Pioneer


Like pioneer women of yore, a few decades ago Clare Hoffman, a born and bred New Yorker, headed west to unfamiliar terrain.  Inspired by Willa Cather’s The Song of the Lark, whose protagonist was a female musician who travels to the Southwest to figure out her life, Clare embarked on a musical quest that happily led to the founding of the Grand Canyon Music Festival!


© Jack Mitchell
 Clare Hoffman, Artistic Director of the Grand Canyon Music Festival (GCMF)


Serendipity may be the true mother of invention.

 
Flutist Clare Hoffman and harmonica virtuoso Robert Bonfiglio were hiking through the Grand Canyon in the early 1980s . . .  
 

 
 
  
when the head ranger asked them to perform for a retiring ranger!


© Ron Zac











 


After an impromptu concert below the North Rim, the local community's enthusiasm led the pair (now happily married!) to launch the Grand Canyon Music Festival (GCMF) in 1983.




 
The GCMF has been lauded by The New York Times as “a treat for eyes and ears” and has received many honors including . . .
 
 
 

Winner: National Arts and Humanities Youth Program Award President’s Committee on the Art and the Humanities



Now celebrating its 29th season, the GCMF has grown into a major annual three-week festival that features internationally-recognized performers, composers, and ensembles.

 

ETHEL 


 
© The New York Times 
“vital and brilliant” (The New Yorker)
“indefatigable and eclectic” (The New York Times) 
 
ETHEL, America’s leading postclassical string quartet, performed at GCMF on Aug. 24-25, and joined forces with the Catalyst String Quartet on Sept. 1.  ETHEL is quartet-in-residence for the Native American Composer Apprentice Program (NACAP).


Perhaps the most striking feature of the festival (and what garnered the First Lady’s hand-delivered honor) is its educational outreach mission and interaction with the surrounding Native American community, including the Navajo, Hopi, Havasupai, and Pima Indian Nations. 

 

     
     Hogan (traditional Navajo home)

 . 
  
But I wanted to know more about what the festival meant to Clare, a flutist colleague and longtime friend (our sons were delivered by the same doctor), and how the Grand Canyon has shaped its artistic evolution.
 
 
 
Grand Canyon. Photo by C.J. Crossland
 
 
 So, Clare and I communicated as she was busily running the festival!
 
 Photo by Clare Hoffman

 As you know Clare, I have first-hand experience running a summer music festival. For a decade I was artistic director of Summer Serenades, an outdoor music festival in upper Manhattan. I found it to be an enriching and often exhilarating experience, but one that required a tremendous personal commitment throughout the year. Congratulations on nearly 3 decades at the helm of GCMF! 
  
· What inspired you to start a festival?
It was the writing of Willa Cather that first brought me to northern Arizona and the Grand Canyon. About 30 years ago (good grief!) I was a young musician, just out of music school, struggling to find my way in the music business, feeling burned out. My sister-in-law invited me to stay with her at a lake in Massachusetts. At Penn Station, as I waited for my train to Mass., I wandered into a bookstore and picked up something to read on the train. That “something to read” was “The Song of the Lark,” coincidentally, serendipitously the story of a young musician trying to find her way in the music world and getting burned out. A friend tells her, “Go to the canyons of Arizona. Don’t think about music.” I returned home from my trip to Mass. and said to my then-boyfriend Robert Bonfiglio (now husband), “We’re going to the canyons of northern Arizona!”
· What did you do when you first arrived in the Grand Canyon?
We planned about 10 days of exploring, starting with a rim-to-rim-to-rim hike through the Grand Canyon. I had my flute and Robert had his harmonica in our backpacks. After the first day of hiking, you find yourself at the bottom of the Grand Canyon, at the Colorado River. I found someplace where I could put my aching feet into the freezing cold water of the river, took out my flute and started to play. I didn’t realize that the sound was echoing throughout the area.
The next day, we hiked along the floor of the canyon to Cottonwood campground. I found a large washed out tree trunk where I was able to sit and play flute. Robert wandered off somewhere and played his harmonica. What neither of us realized was that there was a park ranger who had been at the river the night before, and who had also hiked to Cottonwood, had heard the music both evenings, and was searching for its source.
He finally found me, inside the old tree, and invited us to join him and the other rangers for dessert. We did – enjoyed prickly pear cactus juice and jello made with blackberries picked at Indian Gardens, and played what was to be the first Grand Canyon Music Festival concert: 2 tired hikers playing flute and harmonica, for 2 rangers at the bottom of the Grand Canyon!
· How has the topography of this particular natural wonder shaped the way the festival evolved?
We still had 2 days of hiking in the canyon, and all Robert could talk about was starting a music festival at the Grand Canyon, like our dear friends Arnold and Ruth Black had started in the Berkshires, Mohawk Trails Concerts, a place where musicians could gather, away from the stresses of the music scene, and make music in a beautiful setting. When we finished out hike, we sought out the ranger – Joe Quiroz – and broached the subject with him. His eyes lit up… and the work of founding a music festival started.
Joe pointed us towards other canyons we needed to visit in northern Arizona, in particular Canyon de Chelly and Navajo National Monument, both on the Navajo Nation. We spent the next few days exploring these magnificent sites, where the ancient ones still live through the pottery and structures they left, and through their ancestors, the native people who still live on that land.
In “The Song of the Lark” Willa Cather speaks about a “promise” to live up to the standards set long ago by the ancient ones. The main character in the book is inspired to return to music with new commitment and understanding of why we make music, or any art – the connection to life.
· Do you ever imagine how the festival might have developed if it were held in a very different type of location – for instance in the mountains or by the ocean?
I love Bach, Mozart, Beethoven. They feed my soul, and will always be a part of anything I do. But I think it is the work we have done with the Native artists that has been the most inspiring and distinctive aspect of the Grand Canyon Music Festival. The land and the people are inseparable. And their understanding of their culture – “culture” as not separate from their daily lives, but wholly a part of life – is a way of thinking we need to return to. Ivory towers are fine: I love the Metropolitan Museum of Art, MOMA, symphony halls. But we have built too many walls between the art and… ourselves!
When we are at the Grand Canyon Music Festival, it’s about the art as shared experience.
· How do you keep the festival fresh and come up with new directions after all these years?      
 
             Musicians inspire me! For instance, this year mezzo soprano Cabiria Jacobsen will be performing “Vignettes: Ellis Island,” a song cycle by Alan Louis Smith using text from the Ellis Island Oral History Project. I want to start a Grand Canyon Oral History Project and set it to music. We also are working with a young composer, Trevor Reed (a member of the Hopi Nation) and traditional singer Hopi Clark Tenokhongva… We had a read through last year at Clark’s village. How can you not be inspired?!  
· What gives you the most joy and makes you proudest about what you’ve achieved with the GCMF?
 
Probably our 28 years of outreach to Navajo and Hopi Nation schools, in particular the Native America Composer Apprentice Project. This is NACAP’s 11th season. In November we were award the National Arts and Humanities Youth Program Award from the President’s Committee on the Arts and the Humanities from First Lady Michelle Obama at the White House. Since its founding, over 200 new works for string quartet have been written by students at high schools on the Navajo and Hopi Reservations, and, performed and recorded at the Grand Canyon Music Festival by professional ensembles, including the Miro, Calder String Quartets and since 2005 our NACAP Ensemble-in-residence, ETHEL. 
 
· How do you see the festival evolving in the future (near-term/long-term, harnessing new technologies & ways of communicating with audiences, etc.)?
We will continue to develop our projects with Native youth and artists, and hope to have more commissions, like a Grand Canyon Oral History Project song cycle, and the project with Clark Tenokhongva. We are slowly advancing into social media, and will be building a new website in 2013 to accommodate music and video.
 
· What’s it like dividing your time between two such contrasting parts of the country (NYC & the GC)?
I love it. I am a 2nd generation New Yorker. I have a huge family there and I can’t imagine living anywhere else. But being able to spend time in and around the canyons of northern Arizona, Utah and New Mexico is a huge gift.
· Do you find that you are two different people when you are in NYC versus the GC? 
People sometimes say, “You must enjoy escaping the rat race of New York,” but the truth is the festival is completely absorbing while we are here… and after the season is over I can’t wait to get back to my quiet life in New York City!
· What is your relationship to the Grand Canyon after all these years – (do you ever think I wish I could go somewhere else in August)?
Yes, I do! As I said earlier I am a Native New Yorker. I love the weather in New York! The dryness in Arizona actually gets to me. I can’t wait to get back to the humidity! My son is starting high school in September, and I really wanted this to be a summer where we could just be together and find some family time. But the timing of the festival meant I was nose to the grindstone all summer!
            But the festival dates used to be later, after Labor Day, which meant for years I missed September in New York. Now, with the festival season earlier, I can enjoy September in New York – so it all works out!
  

Clare’s Personal Picks in the Grand Canyon

 
 · How do you relax and escape your responsibilities as ex. director while the festival is going on?
It is always great to be on the Navajo and Hopi lands. You can really be off the grid for a while. But that is changing – an internet café opened in Tuba City last year!
 · Where are some spots you go to have a moment by yourself?
There are a few hikes I love: Canton de Chelly to White House ruin – paradise!. And the Grandview trail in the Grand Canyon is a favorite.
 
· What are your favorite places that you’d recommend to someone who has never been to the Grand Canyon – or the hidden gems that someone who is returning might not know about? 
Look for fossils on the Hermits Trail (you can’t miss them!), on the hike down to Dripping Springs, a waterfall. There are fabulous oases throughout the Grand Canyon, and on the reservations. The Havasupai Reservation, west of Grand Canyon National Park, has fabulous hikes, water falls, swimming. It is worth the hike down.
 
And while driving on the reservation, keep your eyes open for stands of Cottonwood trees - that’s where there’s water, and you’ll find settlements and lovely, shady places to hike.
· What piece of music most captures the feeling you have when you’re at the Grand Canyon?
Something I play? The Sarabande from Bach's solo flute Partita. It is spiritual, yet has an expansive quality – an openness.
 
· Oh, that's perfect –one of my favorite pieces as well. Thanks Clare!




 
Shrine of the Ages, Grand Canyon National Park, where GCMF concerts are held

 


Ed Mell Poster Available Now!
 Ed Mell,  Ascending Storm   

The GCMF has a 28-year partnership with artist Ed Mell, whose stunning Grand Canyon paintings are the image of the GCMF.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Friday, August 17, 2012

CPE* finds a blue heron & chamber music in southern Vermont!


Western Reef Heron on en:Yas Island.
Please take a moment to hear Debussy’s incandescent Reflets dans l'eau (Van Cliburn, piano) as you read this post.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUaTPmVZIVQ









Lake St. Catherine


Most people think fall foliage and ski slopes when Vermont is mentioned.  I think verdant lakes ringed by indigo mountains.  I’m a swimmer and love nothing more than to immerse myself in a cool lake.  Like Burt Lancaster’s character Ned Merrill in The Swimmer (based on John Cheever’s allegorical tale), who decides to “swim home” by dipping in swimming pools across the country, I am slowly swimming my way across Vermont—only through lakes not pools.

My family spent a week on Lake St. Catherine (Poultney/Wells area of Vermont), where my husband Gary and two sons fished to their hearts’ content (no mean feat).  Despite the presence of speedboats, I swam across each day as Gary chaperoned me in a canoe.  Early mornings were quietest (my theory is that motorboaters are late sleepers, which Gary discounts as absurd).  There were endless parts of the lake to explore by canoe and kayak, including marshes, inlets, canals, sunken islands, and a state park with a public beach. 

My favorite day was our last.  It rained and the entire lake was emptied of everyone but yours truly and a blue heron, who fished two feet from my kayak.  I was slightly scared of being struck by lightning as the clouds turned from light grey to charcoal black, but it was worth it and I made it out in time!
Other Great Swimming Lakes
 
·        Emerald Lake 65 Emerald Lake Ln East Dorset, Vermont.  Lovely trail around lake.
·        Echo Lake (Plymouth State Park), near Ludlow, Vermont.  Trail across from lake.
·        Lowell Lake (a hidden gem tucked away in the outskirts of Londonderry on Route 11.  3.5 mile Vast Trail circles round the lake.
Ø  See Vermont State Park’s official website for a list of Vermont’s lakes.  http://www.vtstateparks.com/htm/silver.htm)

Weston

Having bid my sad adieu to this amazing lake, I turn to Weston—which is what brought me to southern Vermont in the first place.  If you’re ready to escape 21st century woes, consider this special corner of paradise.

Weston is home to the famed Weston Playhouse, a lovely staple of theatergoers on the summer stock circuit, where I saw Ella, an amazing one-woman tour de force about Ella Fitzgerald.  There is an after-theater cabaret for late-night owls.  Down the road its sister stage, The Rod and Gun Club (don’t worry the only shooting is staged), presents smaller works in a more intimate venue.  http://www.westonplayhouse.org/the_aliens.php.  (The nearby Dorset Theater recently featured Judd Hirsch. http://www.dorsettheatrefestival.org.)

Up the hill sits another cultural gem, the Kinhaven Music Festival (its executive directors are Debby Buck, first violinist of the esteemed Lark Quartet & Tony Mazzochi, a trombonist/educator).  World-class faculty offer free chamber music concerts every Saturday night.  Fridays and Saturdays students perform chamber ensembles and symphonic works with leading guest conductors.

Kinhaven is what introduced me to this part of Vermont (my son Alex has attended the past three summers).  Top music students are selected by competitive auditions around the country.  The atmosphere is relaxed and concerts are held in Kinhaven's converted barn/concert hall – amidst its rolling green meadows and sparkling spring-fed pond. 
You can still catch the last two weekends before it ends on August 26.   http://kinhaven.org/about/ 
(Oh, and don’t bother charging your cell phone—you may as well leave it home because chances are you won’t get reception in Weston.) 


 

  Photo by Alexander Aylward

Favorite Spots Near Weston

Here are my special picks when I visit Weston.  This list is by no means exhaustive.  If I’ve omitted something you feel belongs, please share!
 
·        Butternut Falls – nice short hike beside river and falls.   Boasts a daring dive off a high-perched rock into a deep pool below for intrepid souls.  Kids love it.  I tried it once and swear my heart stopped as I plunged!
·        Quechee Gorge (“Vermont’s Little Grand Canyon”), Quechee, VT - about 1 ½ hrs north of Weston. http://www.quecheegorge.com/
·        Sugarbush Farm, a working family farm in Woodstock that has an incredible array of delicious treats.  It lets people sample 14 types of cheese, jams, taste and many other delightful treats (like chocolate amaretto syrup).  I expected them to change their liberal sampling policy after my sons had to be literally dragged out (dimming the lights didn’t work) but they still are operating as before.  http://www.sugarbushfarm.com/

Hikes & Trails
Vermont suffered extensive damage from Hurricane Irene last fall, some of which is still apparent, especially in rivers and streams that are filled with rocks and other storm debris.  The trails below are fully operational now.
·        Bromley Mountain (part of the 100 Mile Appalachian Trail) - the trailhead/parking lot is a couple of miles from Bromley Amusement Park as you head from Weston on Route 11/3 (approximately 6 miles east of Manchester, VT).  It’s a fairly rugged trail and is 3 miles each way, though my 9-year-old son has done it several times.   On top there is an incredible panoramic view for those who persevere.  It’s also the top of the ski lift from Bromley’s amusement park. 
·        Bromley Amusement Park - I’m no fan of these parks, but Bromley’s is fairly low-key and has a really fun alpine slide down the mountain.  Even I did it.  http://www.bromley.com/
·        Jenny Coolidge Road – (off Greendale Road near Kinhaven) a long, secluded walk by the river leading up to the Green Mountain National Forest.
·        Benedictine Weston Priory Monastery – just when you can’t take it anymore, go for a serene walk around the lovely priory grounds.   The monks raise animals, cultivate gardens, and host a gallery.  I sat by the divinely peaceful pond, as my nine-year-old stayed uncharacteristically calm and sketched.  Momentarily, I shed my earthly cares.  58 Priory Hill Road. http://www.westonpriory.org/

(*Coincidentally, the initials of Bach’s most famous son Carl Philipp Emanuel)
  

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Welcome!


Everyone knows Shakespeare in the Park, but what about opera in the Amazon?

 

As I kayaked down Vermont's beautiful Lake St. Catherine, enjoying that precious moment of solitude a working mom rarely finds, I thought about combining my two passions: for culture – I’m a Juilliard-trained classical flutist, with wanderlust – who's always in quest of undiscovered natural beauty off the beaten tourist track.  Musicians may not be the highest earners, but we often have a bird's eye view of some of those unexpected treasures in faraway places and around the corner. Thus begat this blog.

And yes, I've performed at Teatro Amazonas, a world-famous opera house in Manaus, right in the Brazilian rainforest.

Amazonia cerca de Rurrenabaque, (La Paz - Bolivia)

Join me on my cultural odyssey and please share your hidden treasures. We'll keep them our secret!